Yamazaki Distillery // 山崎蒸溜所
“I want to create a perfect whisky that reflects the nature of Japan and the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship.”
- Shinjiro Torii @ Yamazaki, 1923.
Uisge-beatha Na h-Alba// ウィスキー// Whisk(e)y
Assuming one begins their journey at Kyoto Station, the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery is a 15 - 20 minute ride on the local JR train line and another 10 minute walk from Yamazaki Station along a picturesque path at the base of Mount Tennōzan. The distillery itself sits where the Katsura, Uji and Kizu Rivers meet, tucked within the mountainside; providing the whisky maker and drinker with a pure base for the spirit and an impeccable vantage point to witness the surrounding region.
The brick laden shrine to this new generation of whisky hides amidst endless trees between the Kyoto and Osaka prefectures, with mineral water so pristine it has attracted generations of craftsmen and entrepreneurs. Close to 100 years ago, Yamazaki beat out several competing regions as Shinjiro Torii’s chosen location for his revolutionary endeavor: craft the first domestic whisky utilizing the abundance of Japan’s natural resources.
A century later, the Yamazaki 12 yr became the first Japanese whisky to win gold at the ISC (International Spirits Challenge) in 2003 - much to the personal chagrin of Scotch lovers globally. But it’s undeniable that Torii succeeded by celebrating the spirit that inspired him, and reinventing the beloved tradition utilizing Japanese craft and superhuman discipline perfected for the Japanese palette.
The Whisky Library
As a bibliophile and Scotch-lover, the conclusion of Yamazaki distillery’s history lesson was almost too stunning to comprehend. After learning of our hero’s inspirations and disciplines, the many iterations of advertising and innovation, and consequences of politics and war on our beloved spirit; one enters an amber hue-d shrine to the over 500 year saga of whisky.
Row after row lies expertly designed (and compulsively organized) glass vessels containing several thousand samples of whisky, from every whisky making region under the sun. The exhibit is beautiful in its simplicity and awe-inspiring in the obvious dedication the makers of Yamazaki have to education and innovation. Like anything Japanese craftsmen and women do - they do it the right way, regardless of how long it takes. to do so
The Tasting Counter: In Three Acts
Unlike most tasting rooms, the Yamazaki Distillery celebrates 30 “world whisky’s” alongside their home distilled spirits. I vehemently urge you to fight your instincts, ignore the Scotch and Bourbon selections, and opt for the premier 3 part tasting option (priced accordingly, naturally). Additional limited editions and component whiskies completely unique to the distillery are offered on rotation and in considered quantities at the tasting counter, and are often available for purchase in the tourism store if you arrive before the daily allocated amount has been depleted.
It’s a rare thing to be able to perform a 1:1 comparison on the same whisky from Suntory’s sister distilleries: Hakashu and Yamazaki. Experiencing these two whiskies in tandem was a delicious education and the best kind of science experiment, showcasing the importance and effect that water, moisture, humidity (and countless other factors) have on two spirits distilled and aged within 360 kilometers of one another.
Act I: The Yamazaki Single Malt Japanese Whisky Aged 18 yrs
Certainly more pedigreed of the two 18 yr Single Malts is born in Yamazaki; a legendary whisky awarded with a Gold at the 2007 International Spirits Challenge and five consecutive Double Gold awards at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Matured and aged in a trio of sherry butts, and ex-bourbon and Japanese Minuzara oak casks, the Yamazaki 18 yrs smells of truffles and sherry, it feels decadent and luxurious while maintaining a mild flavour profile. What begins in oak and sweet sherry metamorphosises into maple syrup and dark chocolate (the kind with hints of cayenne snuck in). It’s smoky, but not aggresively so and finishes languorously sweet.
Act II: The Hakushu Single Malt Whisky Aged 18 yrs
By contrast, the Hakushu Single Malt of the same age marries imported Scottish peat with Japanese craft, pairing smoked walnuts with tangy fruit notes that results in a spicy, woody finish. Like night and day, the Yamazaki and Hakushu are both perfected experiences to be enjoyed in company in the rolling hills of Japan or anywhere in the world one happens to be.
Act III: Hibiki Japanese Whisky Aged 21 yrs
Before the amber liquid is poured, I was struck by the expert design of the Hibiki bottle - it so resembled my fathers’ collection of claddaghs (whisky decanters) that I used to stick my nose into as a child when he was traveling abroad for business to will on peated soaked memories of him. The etched crytsal-esque vessel stands starkly apart from the traditional green and clear bottles that tower next to it, somehow appearing modern and deeply traditional all at once.
The Hibiki portfolio celebrates blended whiskies of varying ages and regions. The 21 yr is “unbelievably balanced and dangerously drinkable,” according to Dr. Whisky himself. It won World's Best Blended Whisky at the 2013 World Whiskies Awards and was awarded 96 points in Jim Murray's 2014 Whisky Bible. It’s a joy to drink, especially for Islay minded Scotch drinkers, while not as overtly hot as peated whiskies, Hibiki’s finish is smooth and smokey and reminds the palette of oak and deep sherry.
