South Island // Te Waipounamu
Act I: Queenstown
Landing anywhere at 7 in the morning after a thirteen hour flight is a recipe for disaster, but the sheer number of times Queenstown leaves you breathless is more than enough to stave off jet lag. But if you need a wee bit of energy, standing in line at Fergburger is better than a double espresso. The biggest mistake is thinking the line will ever die down - hear this: if you want a Fergburger, you’ll have to work for it. Because you’ll never find a seat, take your spoils and head to Steamer Wharf (just watch out for the thieving ducks).
A food coma pairs well with a drive. One of the best ways to see the intricacies of Queenstown proper is by the many winding coastal roads - a spectacular 45 minute drive away from town is Glenorchy, a small settlement at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu promising camp grounds, hiking trails and a complete immersion into the world of Lord of the Rings. As a sort-of Scotswoman, the drama and dampness of the town reminded me of the highlands and lochs that I used to visit as a child. But the reality of the magnificence of this particular angle of the lake is something that will touch anyone, and is a perfect afternoon trip up and down the lakeside.
The truly phenomenal thing about new Zealand, I’ve come to learn, is the shift in perspective shown on the drive home. We so often forget to turn our heads around on road trips - if you’re not planning on going back the way you came I highly recommend paying close attention to your rear view mirror.
Back in Queenstown (and starving), we were craving a bit of home so walked along Frankton Arm, down Church Street to Erick’s Fish & Chips. Along the way we got distracted by one of the best bookstores I have ever happened upon, Bound Books & Records, with a collection of New Zealand authors, modern and vintage vinyls and a collection of literary rarities ranging from Billy Connolly to Bill Bryson to Richard Dawkins. In the spirit of the holidays’ my dad surprised me with “Bowie’s Books: The Hundred Literary Heroes Who Changed His Life” by John O’Connell. So far I’ve read 4/100 - it feels like a lifetime of books to go. Bowies’s influence was apparent throughout the bookstore, but O’Connell’s dedication to painting one of the most iconic musicians (and men) of the past century as a deliberate bibliophile made me fall in love with Ziggy Stardust all over again…
For a town so small, Queenstown is absolutely packed with surprise and delights.
Food & Drink in Queenstown
Fergburger - For a burger worth the wait
What to order…
Start with the Ferburger Deluxe (and then order everything)
Tip: When it comes to sides, order the chips and squid first.
Erik’s Fish & Chips - For food that tastes like home (if you’re British, that is)
What to order…
Family Meal Deal (to try as much as humanly possible)
Calamari (for the biggest pieces of squid you’ve ever seen)
Scallop (because it’s the best, cheapest fine food you’ll find)
Ivy & Lola's Kitchen & Bar - For brunch on the day the jet lag sets in.
What to order…
Hot Smoked Hoki (for some local flavour… and mozzarella arancini)
Smoked Seafood Chowder (to warm you up from the wind)
Act II: Te Anau
Milford Sound is about a 4 hour drive from Queenstown - so if you don’t feel like a straight shot to Fiordland and are craving out of this world wonders like glow worm caves and underground waterfalls, Te Anau is a destination in and of itself.
Te Anau is known as the gateway to Fiordland National Park and delivers countless (I really mean countless) opportunities to enjoy nature’s spoils. From kayaking in lake Te Anau to hiking Kepler Track to a bird’s eye view in a Cesna 172 sea plane, Te Anau makes it easy to witness Fiordland from every angle.
The first views of Milford Sound were from above with Wings & Water Sea Plane Tours. Our pilot went above and beyond expectations, peppering in expert commentary only a New Zealander could, one who has dedicated his life to the nation’s horizon and Fiorland’s skyline. After a stomache dropping 360° turn at 6,000 feet he congratulated himself with perfectly timed humour I’ve come to miss living in the states: “Not bad for my first go, eh?” We landed effortlessly after a picturesque aerial tour of the mountain range, blanketed in snow and ash from the nearby Australian bush fires, a reminder of a distant but far too close end to one of nature’s most extreme landscapes. Our pilot packaged our GoPro 2 (the most superior of the family, in his expert opinion) footage and uploaded it into a mini branded sea plane thumb-drive for a memory - and a small additional fee.
No sooner were we off the plane than we were in the car heading up the 94 to Milford Sound, with quick stops at Eglinton Valley, Mirror Lakes and The Chasm after attempting to hold our breaths through Homer Tunnel. Ever punctual, we arrived with an hour to spare before we witness Milford Sound by sea with Mitre Peak. The benefit of investing more in a smaller vessel is the capacity to extend beyond the status quo and venture farther into the Tasman Sea and closer to the various waterfalls and coves hidden in the nooks and cranny’s of the fiord (plus, you get a cuppa’ for your troubles). The spectacle of the eighth wonder of the word deserves to be see at all possible angles. Air. Land. Sea.
Leave nothing to the imagination and take your time getting home, stopping consistently on the road already travelled. Te Anau’s Town Centre if the perfect pit-stop, with every cuisine present in the perfectly engineered strip. The Fat Duck in particular was a needed jolt of energy for the long drive home - promising unexpected international flavours paired seamlessly with local wines and beers (to be enjoyed responsibly and with the two hour drive in mind, of course).
Food & Drink in Te Anau
The Fat Duck - For a cheeky bite and bevy to and from Milford Sound.
What to order…
Fat Duck Wontons (because you didn’t know you needed a bite-sized banh mi)
Fish Taco (sacrilege from California, but I said what I said)
Seafood Linguini (if you don’t feel like sharing but still need to try the ocean)
